Understanding the Different Types of Perms: A Complete Guide

When it comes to hairstyling, few elements are as impactful—and as expressive—as the type of perm you choose. Perms transform straight hair into soft waves, bold curls, or nature-inspired loops, each offering a unique look tailored to your style, hair type, and lifestyle. Whether you're aiming for beachy loose waves, sleek curls, or vintage-inspired ringlets, understanding the various types of perms will help you make an informed decision.

In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore the most popular types of perms—from traditional coil perms and volumenous curls to modern hand-tied and braided styles—so you can find the perfect look for your face shape, hair texture, and personal aesthetic.

Understanding the Context

What Is a Perm?

A perm, short for “permanent,” is a hair styling technique that temporarily alters your hair’s structure by chemically breaking and resetting the hair cuticle. When properly done, the cuticle is wrapped around a strand of hair (coil, coil wrap, or pattern) and locked in place, creating lasting waves or curls. Once the chemical is neutralized, the hair retains its new shape indefinitely—until natural shedding occurs.

types of perms

Key Insights

The Main Types of Perms Explained

1. Coil Perm

The coil perm is one of the oldest and most classic styles. It involves wrapping hair around a metal or plastic coil and then securing it with clips. The anatomy of the coil determines the wave pattern—tight, medium, or loose.

Best For:

  • All hair types, especially thick or coarse hair that benefits from volume.
  • Creating classic beachy waves or sleek, tight curls depending on coil size.
  • Long-term styling since metal coils allow hair to hold shape for months.

Pros: Long-lasting with minimal daily maintenance.
Cons: Time-consuming application and professional needs for optimal results.

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Final Thoughts

2. Hand-Tied (Babyliss) Perm

Popularized by the Babyliss Pro tool, this modern take uses woven strands of perc (curling rod) built by hand into spiral or spiral-and-loop patterns. After application, sections of hair are sealed with a file or heat tool to lock in wave types.

Best For:

  • Fine or thin hair that benefits from added volume.
  • More natural-looking waves and curls compared to coil perms.
  • Creative texturing with custom patterns and styles.

Pros: Customizable wave intensity and direction; achievable at home with tools.
Cons: Initial investment in quality tools; requires patience and practice.

3. French Wave

The French wave is a soft, Parisian-inspired style characterized by gentle, spiral tendrils that sweep gently from root to tip. Done with heat, bindings, and careful averaging of hair, it delivers a romantic, effortless vibe.

Best For:

  • Fine or straight hair seeking a lively, lofty look.
  • Flashy full-contact styles perfect for formal events or glamorous occasions.

Pros: Adds dramatic height and dimension.
Cons: Requires frequent maintenance and heat styling to retain; not ideal for daily wear.

4. Boxed Perm (Heavy Duty Perm)

A heavier-weight perm using multiple coils stacked tightly, often applied with strong perming solutions like lye. It’s common in European salons and delivers dramatic volume and tight curls.

Best For:

  • Thick, coarse, or stubborn hair that needs structural support.
  • Bold, eye-catching styles for special events.